Maret 2017 - My Motto 77


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How to appoint a good vehicle Tint Shop

Most metropolitan areas have an abundance of tint shop choices. In the San Francisco, CA venue alone, there are 30 distinct tint shops within a 25 mile radius. How does a consumer appoint the tint shop that does standard work? What is the difference between a "Dr. Tint" and a "standard Window Tinting"?

We at TintCenter suggest that you do a small research. First compile a list of 5 potential tint shops that are likely to do good work. question your friends a co-workers who have tinted their cars which tint shops they chose, look in the Yellow Pages and mark down the tint shops with enormous expert advertisements and get price quotes from a local tint shops.Once you have this list in-hand, its moment to interview each dealer:

- How long have you been in business at this venue? Do you have other shops in the venue?

Good tint shops prosper despite other local tournament by benefaction good service at reasonable prices. You should find a tint shop that has been in business for 5 or more years at the same venue, this shows a stable business that will be there years down the roadway if somehow the tint goes evil.

Often times successful tint shops also open vehicle tinting branches in neighboring cities. Although the installers may not be the of the highest standard since opening brand-new shops means training brand-new employees; however, branches are a sure sign of a successful tinting business.

- What types of films do you carry? What warranty do you offer on your work?

standard tint shops carry finish lines of window movie from one or multiple window movie manufacturers. They should carry dyed, hybrid, and metallic window films in a variety of colors and darknesses. becautious of tint shops that only carry one or two types of movie, and sells them aggressively. They may have acquired this movie on sale, and may not be cognition of your distinctive requirements and concerns.

The warranty on the vehicle tint varies depending on the window movie you appoint. TintCenter recommends that you install only window movie backed with a lifetime warranty for materials and labor. Most films don't guarantee color and fading, it is recommended that you also appoint one that does.

For the warranty to take effect, remember to get only legal window tint for your vehicle. illegitimate tint automatically nullifies any manufacturer's warranty. Make sure you get a manufacturer's warranty card from the dealer with the date, the window movie used on each window, and the total cost of installation.

- Can I drop by your tint shop? Can you show me a sample of your work when I'm there?

Tint shops can sound like the best shop on the phone, but 15 minutes on-site should tell you all you need to know.

Good dealers pay attention to customer service. They should be joyful and willing to disburse the moment to talk to you and explain how their shops work. Remember, if they don't disburse moment with you know, will they disburse moment with you when there is something wrong with your tint job?

a tint shop's work venue should be indoors and clean. Their tools and window films are organized in an expert manner. If the tint shop is outdoors or in a parking lot, this is a negative since it is critical to remove all dust and dust from the windows before applying window movie.

Now take a look at a vehicle they have already tinted. Pay attention to side-windows. The window movie should be applied to the inside and be completely flush against all 4 edges of the window. Now look at the window movie itself. Don't worry if the movie itself looks slightly streaky and discolored, window movie takes a couple weeks to dry out and become completely clear. If there are bubbles of breeze under the movie or the movie itself is not finish flat against the window, this is a sure sign of sloppy tinting.

Finally, take a look at the breed window. Is the window movie applied in a solo piece or is it cut into strips that surround the defroster lines? The most skilled tint shops always enlistly movie in a solo piece. Now look at the borders of the breed window, in many cars there is a black 'frit' edge on the window, Make sure the window movie looks securely attached to the frit as well.

Finally, get price quotes from each dealer for the accurate darkness, color, and type of window movie you want. Never compromise because there are plenty of other dealers out there that will offer your outstanding tint. With these price quotes and your research on each tint shop, make the choice. Refer to the cost of vehicle tint article to support you grade the dealers.

After you make your choice, remember to always make an appointment with the tint shop before you tint your vehicle. Even if they say "drop-ins accepted" or "bring it over any moment", you want you tinter to be quiet and ready for you when you arrive and not rushed. Tinting may take a couple hours to half a day, so either arrange a steer or go to a nearby coffee shop with a good book. Enjoy!
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7 simple Ways To Slash Your Auto Insurance Costs

The law requires you purchase auto insurance. So if you must get cover, how can you reduce costs ? Here's 7 simple ways to get the best viable auto insurance deal.

* Multiple Quotes

Get multiple quotes - use the internet and call a few brokers. It's simple to accumulate some good comparison quotes.

Remember to get non-identical types of quotes e.g one from a direct-sell insurance company; another from an offline broker who keeps a database of quotes; and a couple from the internet.

Cheapest might not mean best. Will they pay out if you make a bay ? How financially secure ? How reputable ? Check around with family and friends, and look for online reviews.

* non-identical type of vehicle

Insurance costs vary depending on vehicle type. Obviously, that $100k sports version costs more to insure than your average runabout. If you're planning to purchase a brand-new vehicle, check insurance costs before you purchase. I once set my heart on a pretty, high performance, highly tuned Pontiac.

Luckily I checked the auto insurance before I bought it, because I couldn't get insurance. Every broker, every insurance company flat turned me down because I lived in a high vehicle-crime venue. So I had to forget the vehicle of my dreams until I moved up-town.

* Age and Value of vehicle

Maybe you're buying an used vehicle ? Maybe your vehicle saw acceptable days a few years ago, and now values much lower ? So why pay for high-priced auto insurance ? In particular, do you still need fully comprehensive coverage ?

a good rule of thumb multiplies insurance premium by 10, and compares that figure with your vehicle value. So if you're quoted $1000 premium and your vehicle is worth less than $10,000 you may want to think if comprehensive represents good value. If you drop collision and/or comprehensive coverage, you should get enormous savings.

* Higher deductibles (excess charges)

Most auto insurance companies use deductibles to keep policy cost down. Deductibles, or excess charges, show what you pay before your auto insurance policy kicks in. strive requesting quotes with non-identical steps of deductibles, and see how your quotes vary.

Most internet quote forms contain a box where you can choose preferred stage of deductibles. request your broker his recommended stage. For instance, going from $250 to $500 deductible can slash your insurance costs by 20% or more. Go to $1000 and you save a lot of cash. But you must pay the deductible if you need to make a bay !

* Multiple Insurances

I guess this might come under the 'Get Multiple Quotes' heading, but it's still worth mentioning separately. You usually get an insurance break if you purchase multiple policies with the same insurer.

This might mean multiple vehicles, or homeowner and auto insurance. Either route it's worth asking about multi-policy discounts.

* Low Mileage

More and more people work at home. No more commuting. Fewer business trips. Low mileage on your vehicle. Maybe you do journey to work, but vehicle pool ?

Either route, look for low mileage discounts.

* Good Driving Record

a good driving record always reduces your auto insurance costs. Keep a clean drivers license. Don't speed, don't steer dangerously, and you'll save cash (apart from other benefits !)

* Bonus Tip

Okay, I said '7 Ways...', but here's some additional tips. Fit anti-theft devices to your vehicle. Go on an advanced rider training course. Use daytime running lights. If you're a college student away from home, consider adding to parents policy.

This short article covers the things you must consider when shopping for auto insurance. Follow these tips and you'll slash your auto insurance costs.
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Nine Top Tips to Maximize Your Fuel Efficiency and Save cash on Gas

With the escalating price of gas, buying a fuel-efficient automobile makes a lot of sense. Approximately 15% of brand-new automobile buyers reject a version due to poor gas mileage. Nearly 40% of those consumers who eliminate a full-size SUV due to gas mileage ultimately purchase a midsize SUV instead, while nearly 20% purchase another version altogether. (J.D. power and Associates, Sept. 2004.)

But even if you don't currently own a fuel-efficient automobile, there are lots of ways you can enhance the fuel efficiency of your present automobile until you're prepared to purchase one of the best gas mileage cars. Your personal driving habits have a gigantic effect on your fuel use and costs. You can acceptable supervise your automobile operating costs as well as minimize the emissions it produces by driving less and more efficiently. Here are some tips to aid.
First, you need to know what kind of mileage you are getting. Calculate this by filling up your tank and recording the odometer reading-or you can reset your trip gauge to zero. Next moment you get gas, fill the tank again and divide the miles you traveled between fill ups by the quantity of gas you bought on this fill-up. This is your automobile's miles per gallon or mpg. If it's beautiful dismal, here's how to turn your fuel guzzler into a fuel saver:
ride slower: The aerodynamic drag on your automobile increases noticeably the faster you ride. The drag force at 70 mph is about double that at 50 mph, so keeping speed down can increase your mileage considerably. Gas mileage decreases rapidly at speeds over 60 mph. Each 5 mph above 60 mph is like paying a more $.10/gallon for gas. Observing the speed maximum is also safer for everyone.

Maintain an orderly speed: Every moment you speed up, you use power, some of which is wasted when you sedate the automobile down again. By maintaining an orderly speed, especially driving the posted speed maximum, you will enhance your fuel efficiency. Just by increasing your freeway cruising speed from 62 mph to 74 mph you increase fuel consumption by about 20%! Using cruise regulate on the freeway helps you maintain an orderly speed and will usually save gas.

ride gently: Aggressive driving-speeding, rapid acceleration and solid braking-wastes gas. These evil habits can lower your gas mileage by 33% at freeway speeds and 5% in the city. In addition, reasonable driving is safer for you and others, so you may be saving more than gas cash. Consider using overdrive gears on the freeway, as this decreases engine speed, reducing fuel usage and engine wear.

dodge Excess Idling: Idling gets 0 miles/gallon and wastes fuel and cash, is solid on the engine and adds to toxic emissions. Cars with larger engines typically waste more gas at idle than those with smaller engines. Turn off your engine if you think you will be stopped for more than 30 seconds. However, if you're driving a fuel-efficient automobile like a hybrid, your electric engine is on when you idle, so you're not wasting any gas at all!
Minimize breeze conditioning: Using your breeze conditioner in hot weather can increase your fuel consumption by more than 20% in city driving. Whenever viable, close all windows and use the breeze vents to circulate breeze instead of breeze conditioning. You will enhance your fuel efficiency in summer by minimizing the use of breeze conditioning and using your automobile's flow-through ventilation, especially on the freeway. If you must use the breeze conditioning, set the controls to a stage that lets the system cycle, and turn it off once the interior of automobile is cooled down enough. Also consider such options a sunroof and tinted glassware to keep the automobile cool.

Keep Your automobile in Shape: Maintaining your automobile in top working condition saves you fuel and cash, and reduces long-term repair costs while minimizing harmful emissions.

Keep Your engine Properly Tuned-Getting orderly tune-ups when your automobile is out of tune or has failed an emissions experiment may enhance gas mileage by about 4%. If your automobile has a faulty oxygen sensor and you have it fixed, gas mileage could enhance as much as 40%. Make sure the spark plugs, if you have them, are firing properly, replacing them when necessary. Have the engine timing checked for accuracy.

Check & Replace breeze Filters Regularly-Replacing a clogged breeze filter could enhance an automobile's gas mileage by as much as 10%. Additionally, it will preserve your engine from impurities. Change this more often if you live in a dirty climate, ride on dust or gravel roads or if you ride off-street for entertaining.

Keep Tires Properly Inflated-Your gas mileage can increase by about 3.3% if you keep tires inflated to their proper pressure. It takes more effort and gas for the engine to propel an underinflated tire than a correctly inflated one-which provide less street-resistance, thereby improving fuel efficiency. becautious over-inflation, though, which can govern to handling problems and uneven tire wear. Check tire pressure on an orderly basis, looking for signs of uneven wear or embedded objects that can cause breeze leaks. In winter, check tire pressure if there is a sharp change in temperature, as cold weather decreases breeze pressure in the tires.
Use the Recommended rank of engine lubricant-Fuel efficiency can enhance by 1-2% if you use the manufacturer's recommended rank of engine lubricant. Also, if you change your own lubricant, look for engine lubricant rated as "power Conserving" to be sure it contains friction-reducing additives.

Check Which Gas to Use-Choose the correct octane gas for your automobile by checking your owner's manual. It's not necessary to purchase the "super" high-octane gas unless your automobile manufacturer recommends it or your engine knocks without it. While you won't do damage to the engine, you will be paying more than you need to, since premium (highest octane) gas sells for an average of 17 cents more per gallon than orderly gas. Only about 6% of cars sold in the U.S. need premium gas, according to the AAA. Also, dodge topping off your gas tank, since in warmer weather, fuel expansion can cause an overflow and you'll be wasting priceless fuel. You want to be a fuel saver-not a fuel waster!

Planning & Combining Trips: Combining errands to do together and in similar areas saves moment and cash. Several short trips starting from a cold engine can use twice as much fuel as a longer multi-purpose trip that covers the same distance when the engine is warmed up. With a tiny advance planning, you can dodge high traffic areas, street building, retracing your way and ultimately reduce the distance you journey while running errands. You'll not only save on fuel, but also reduce wear and tear on your automobile.
Commuting: If you can alternate your work hours to dodge rush hour, you'll disburse less moment sitting in traffic and flame up less fuel. For stop and go traffic, ride your best gas mileage automobile if you own more than one automobile. Contemplate telecommuting (working from home) when your job permits. If you can, participate in carpools and ride-share programs. You can cut your weekly fuel costs in half and save wear on your automobile if you take turns sharing driving with others.

Traveling: a roof rack or carrier affords more cargo space and helps out when you have a smaller automobile. However, a loaded roof rack decreases fuel efficiency by 5%. Reduce the loop resistance and increase your fuel efficiency by putting objects inside the trunk when viable. Also, remove any unnecessary items, especially heavy ones, as an additional 100 lbs. in the trunk reduces an automobile's fuel efficiency by about 1 to 2%.
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How Often Do You Change grease?

When do you need to replace your lubricating grease? If you have a gigantic quantity of lubricating grease to change, it is going to flame a hole in your pocket. So most crop operators strive to protect the properties of the lubricating grease for as long as viable.

One of the most important functions of lubricating grease is to reduce the friction between the moving parts of machinery. But there are other features to look at.

When do you know that the grease needs to be changed? Below is a rough govern:

1. Viscosity has changed by 10%

2. Flash Point has dropped to 150 degree Celsius

3. Water Content has reached 2%

4. TBN, or Total Base Number has reduced by 20%

5. Insoluble Content has increased to 5% of the grease

Due to the oxidation of the grease when exposed to heat and oxygen, the viscosity of the grease tend to reduce. With the reduction of viscosity, the movie of grease between rubbing metal surfaces becomes more strenuous to maintain. This results in metal to metal contact, micro seizures that leads to scuffing, abrasion and other damages.

In gigantic diesel engines, fuel grease from dripping injectors or fuel pumps sometimes finds their route into the lubrication grease sump. This has the tendency to reduce the flash point of the lubricating grease. In addition to reducing the viscosity that is detrimental to lubrication, this contamination with fuel grease can be quite hazardous. If there is a hotspot in any of the rubbing parts, this can govern to a crankcase explosion.

Water can also find its route into the lubricating grease from leaks in the cooling water system o-rings or gaskets. In addition to reducing the lubricating properties of the grease, the presence of water in the grease can give rise to bacteria or fungal growth, which will quickly havoc the grease properties as well as contributing to acid corrosion and oxidation of the grease, changing the chemical composition of the grease itself. However, if the water content is below 0.5%, it can still be removed by centrifugal purifiers.

The total base number is especially needed for the cylinder liner lubrication of engines that run on poor standard fuel with high sulphur content. The base additive is used to reduce the corrosive effects of the sulphuric acid fumes on the cylinder.

With gigantic diesel motor installations, the lubricating oils are continuously filtered and purified to reduce the insoluble particles in the grease. exclusive strainers containing magnets are used to trap particles of carbon or iron particles. In gigantic diesel engines, the carbon particles are byproducts of combustion while the iron particles comes from rubbing of gears, cams or other parts where wear down still occur.

The presence of these particles interferes with the lubrication of bearings, most of which contain soft white-metal coating. The particles can become embedded into the soft metal and cause abrasion of the metal parts.
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Top 9 Tips for Buying a fuel-Efficient car

Whether you buy a brand-new or used car, fuel efficiency--good gas mileage--is high on the list of most buyers' concerns. The difference between choosing a fuel-efficient car or one that guzzles gas, will either save or cost you cash over the life of the car, which could be substantial. Fuel efficiency varies widely from one car to the next. Obviously you can check the EPA rating for city/freeway MPG on the window sticker, although most of us know the average car never reaches those numbers.

You can also check consumer guides, car magazines and Web sites, Web site forums or request friends, relatives and co-workers which vehicles they recommend as fuel-efficient cars. Don't buy more car than you need, as larger vehicles generally have bigger engines that are less fuel-efficient. Find the most fuel-efficient car in the size team you're interested in, whether a two-seater, tight, mid-sized, SUV or pickup truck. There are several online sites where you can compare fuel consumption ratings of any car.

Your preference of transmission can also affect the fuel efficiency of the car. Generally, a car with manual transmission is a more fuel-efficient car than one with automatic-assuming you shift properly. And a manual with overdrive, tachometer or shift indicator is the biggest fuel saver, saving up to 10% on fuel costs. If you do buy an automatic, which makes more sense for larger cars, the more gears the acceptable.

Under normal driving conditions, smaller engines offer acceptable fuel efficiency and economy than larger ones. All other things being equal, the larger engine and the more cylinders it has, the more fuel it consumes. Additionally, cars with smaller engines usually cost less and gas costs are lower because you don't need higher octane gas. That doesn't mean a bigger engine is never a good preference. In some cases, a larger, more strong engine may provide the greater fuel efficiency. If you use your car for work or often tow heavy loads, a smaller engine could flame more fuel if it has to work too solid and function beyond its most fuel-efficient range.

Depending on the type and size of engine car you buy, you may have the preference of front-wheel, rear-wheel, four-wheel or all-wheel steer. The majority of passenger cars and minivans have front-wheel steer, a design that supplies acceptable traction and more interior room than rear-wheel steer. Although front-wheel steer was originally adopted to upgrade fuel economy over rear-wheel steer by reducing the weight and size of cars without giving up driving performance or interior space, there's really not much difference in fuel efficiency between the two.

And although four-wheel and all-wheel steer provide acceptable traction and braking in certain driving conditions, the weight and friction of the additional drivetrain parts may increase fuel consumption by up to 10% over a two-wheel steer car. Most often in SUVs and pickup trucks, four-wheel steer is enabled at will by the chauffeur when additional traction is necessary. All-wheel steer is an option on some SUVs and a minority of passenger cars. Full-time all-wheel steer, however, makes for the least fuel-efficient car, because all four wheels are always being driven, drawing energy from the engine and thus using more gas.

Another route to be a fuel saver, is by limiting the options you appoint for your car. You may not have realized that many conveniences from energy windows, seats and mirrors to breeze conditioning and seat warmers decrease fuel efficiency and cost you more in fuel consumption. They add either weight, increase aerodynamic drag or pull additional energy from the engine or through the alternator.
Aluminium wheels are one of the few options that actually reduce weight and thereby increase fuel efficiency.

Obviously, considering other fuel options such as a hybrid electric car, is another preference for a fuel-efficient car.
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Powder Coating 101: How Does It Work?

Everybody is talking about the process of powder coating automotive parts. Powder coating has grown in popularity over the past few years for a number of reasons. How many of us see powder coating being used on shows like "American Chopper" or "Overhaulin'"? The general public knows from watching these shows that powder coating is out there. But what is powder coating and how exactly is it done? Anybody know?

Preparation is imperative in achieving a standard complete. The item being coated must be completely bare of any colourant, filth, lubricant, or any other substance. To attain this, sandblasting tool is used. If it is not viable to use this tool, it must be done with chemicals or by hand. The items are then baked to remove any moisture from the metal. After all materials have been stripped off, the item is treated with a degreasing solution to support prevent corrosion.

Powder coating is a process by which selected items are coated with a fine powder of ground resin and pigment, which is basically ground up colourant particles that form a powder-like substance. The items being coated are placed on a rack, which grounds the items. a gun is used to spray the powder onto the items. a huge oven is then used to heat and cure the coating. Temperatures used to cure the items typically are between 400 and 450 degrees. Heating the items makes the pigments melt, gel, and then cure to form a durable complete. The finished product is a costume coating. Powder coating can be used on steel, zinc, and aluminum as well as other materials. The standard of the finished product has the ability to outlast and outperform painted parts. a variety of up to a few hundred distinct colors are available to select from. It also exceeds colourant in resisting acids, solvents, impact, and abrasions.

Powder coating can be used to coat items such as valve covers, wheels, bumpers, trim parts, motor parts, sway bars, coil springs, strut bars, and many items in between. There are many options as to who does the powder coating for you. There are companies in most metropolitan areas that either exclusively powder coat or companies that offer it along with their other services. Online companies also play into the equation with a number gift services as well. There are normally two systems for purchasing powder coated parts. For well-kown parts, companies may stock core parts available to be coated in a variety of colors. You order the part and ship yours back for a core. For more custom jobs, you must remove the part and ship it to the powder coater. Companies such as Eastwood also vend do-it-yourself kits. These kits commence at $99 and you can use an electric oven or toaster oven to bake and cure the complete. a breeze compressor capable of a 5-10 PSI output is also required.

So the next moment you hear about powder coating on TV or anywhere else, you will now have a concept of how that actual process is performed. Powder coating is superior to normal painting if you want a complete that holds up good and lasts longer. Check it out today!!
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Changing lubricant and Filter

If you live within a city-limits, be sure to check with the city manager's office to see if they have any regulations about working on your own automobile in your yard or driveway. Thanks!

Park your automobile on a stage surface and put blocks of wood or bricks behind the procreate tires.

Jack the front of the automobile up enough for you to get under it.

Be SURE to put jacks stands under the body (behind the front wheels) or put some timbers under the tires and let the weight off the jack.

Put a piece of cardboard, or an old blanket, underneath the automobile to lie down on (I hate working on the *ground*). ?º

Get a pail or pan that will hold at least 6 or 7 quarts of fluid to drain the lubricant into.

It's a mess having a pan that holds 4 quarts and letting 5 quarts of old lubricant running into it! ?¼

You will need a wrench to remove the lubricant pan drain plug. PLEASE, don't use one of those "adjustable" things. All they do is "circular" the shoulders on the plug. Get the proper equipment.

You need a filter wrench that will fit your lubricant filter.

Be sure the motor has had moment to cool down. Hot lubricant will blaze you, and blaze you, and keep on burning you! ?¼

Now, the best path to go about this is to see where the lubricant filter is. If it will be just above you, leave it until last. Old lubricant will *drip* on you (yes!)

Put the drain pan under the lubricant pan drain plug and remove the plug, slowly. Once you have it loose, you can remove it with your fingers, it's easier.

After the lubricant stops running out of the lubricant pan, put the plug back in by hand. Don't force it, make sure you can loop it up simple, you don't want to "cross-thread" it (you would be looking for me then!).

Tighten it with the wrench. When you get it "snug", put a tiny amount of "pressure" on the wrench. Not too much, but we don't want it to leak, either!

Now, move the drain pan (slowly) under the lubricant filter.

Take the filter wrench and slip it over the lubricant filter, being sure you have the handle where it will tighten up on the filter when you pull the handle toward you.

Pull the filter wrench handle toward you. Sometimes this might take quite a lot of pressure. When the lubricant filter breaks loose you can remove the wrench and turn it with your hand.

Have on cloth gloves or use paper towels because lubricant will probably run down the side of the filter.

Continue to loop the filter off and put it into the drain pan.

Unless your lubricant filter is positioned upside-down, you want to pour fresh lubricant into it.

Be sure to put lubricant on the rubber gasket. That protects the seal and makes it easier to remove next moment.

As you put the brand-new filter onto the threaded spout, be VERY cautious not to "cross-thread" it. If you can loop it easily, you're ok.

Once you get it snug, tighten it as much as you can with your hand (unless you're a soccer player).

Now, I usually take the filter wrench and turn it about an inch, or less. You don't want to get it too firm, it will squeeze the mating material and cause lubricant to seep from around it.

Now, jack the vehicle up and take the supports out and let the automobile down on its tires.

lift the hood and remove the lubricant filler cap (the 710 if your cap is backward and has lubricant written on it) ?º.

Most vehicles take 5 quarts (with filter) to refill them. Some take only 4.5 quarts.

I usually put in 4 quarts, crank the motor, check the lubricant pressure gauge, or light; check for leaks underneath the automobile (plug/filter), then turn the motor off.

Let the automobile set for about 15-20 minutes.

Pull the lubricant dipstick out and wipe it off. Replace it and pull it back out and look where the lubricant stage is.

If it's just a quarter to a half inch from the "Full" mark, I'll add only a half-quart of lubricant, then check it again.

You will need to take the old lubricant and filter to a mend shop or a disposal venue to discard it.

PLEASE, don't pour it out on the ground! EPA!!! Remember, I TOLD you so! ?º

So, you don't have to wait in line at the *quick* places to get your lubricant changed anymore! Never, ever, again.
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Flush The Cooling System On Your automobile, or Truck

Your cooling system should be flushed every other year. No, I'm not insane, but with all the brand-new chemicals they use today, it will literally eat up the rubber hoses and deteriorate the heater core, and the radiator core.

Have a drain pan under the drain plug, or the lower radiator hose, to capture the old liquid. EPA doesn't want you to let it run out onto the ground--it will contaminate Earth!

Make sure the motor is cold! Hot antifreeze burns dramatically and it will blaze you, too!

If you can get to the drain plug, (sometimes it's solid to get to) you can put a piece of 3/8 inch hose onto it. Put the other end into the drain pan and open the drain plug. This will let the liquid empty into the drain pan--that route all the liquid will go into the drain pan and not spread out and drip all over the place. Remove the radiator cap.

If you want, and it's much faster, you can remove the lower radiator hose from the radiator. Use caution, though, you don't want to break the neck on the radiator--that's a no-no.

It is good to have the drain plug opened, though, when you commence to flush.

a word of caution! Antifreeze/summer coolant is very toxic. Don't get it on the body colourant, or on your skin. Wash it off with water! Another thing, it will kill your pets if they drink it, so keep them, and children, away from it, remember, I warned you!:-)

Some vehicles have a vent plug. It's located near the thermostat housing (where the upper radiator hose is connected to). Open this to vent: the liquid will empty out good.

Now will be a good moment to inspect the hoses. Look at the heater hoses: are they swelled near the clamps? Do they feel solid, or real soft? If so, replace them. The same with the upper and lower radiator hoses. If your car has a by-pass hose (from the water pump to the thermostat housing) check it also. Don't be skimpy here, a small for a hose now will save a lot later. Replace the hose clamps, too, if they need replacing. I hate those "clip" type, and they are usually in need of replacing.

You can get a "flush kit" at most auto parts stores. Read the instruction as to how to install it. Most of the moment you can cut the heater hose going to the water pump and install it there. They are designed to be a permanent fixture: you can leave it hooked up.

After you have installed the flush kit you need to hook up the garden hose to the fitting. It might be best for you to remove the thermostat, as cool water will close it and restrict flow.

Turn the water faucet on, not too much, and leave the radiator cap off and the drain open. If water spews from the vent plug opening, put it back in.

Crank the motor and let it idle. Watch the liquid coming from the 3/8 tubing. When the liquid is clear as water, ha, you can turn the faucet off and then turn the ignition switch off.

You may need two drain pans to capture all the liquid, plus, you will need to find a place in your city to dispose the liquid: a mend shop, or disposal crop. Do not pour it out on the ground: EPA!!!

Let the car cool down. After the motor is cold you can turn the water faucet on again and reflush. There is no need to restart the motor, just let the water run through the block, heater core, and radiator. Let this go for about two or three minutes, then you can turn the water off and remove the garden hose. Put the cap that came with the kit over the spout after you remove the garden won't have to remove the flush kit, just leave it there for the next moment.

They make chemicals to flush systems that have a lot of rust and deposits in them, but this mean will work in most cases.

Be sure you have the lower radiator hose clamp firm (if you removed it), and have the drain plug firm (remove the hose if you put one on).

Now you can add your antifreeze/summer coolant. Depending on where you live, most car manufacturers recommend a 50/50 solution. Look in your owner's manual and see what they recommend. If your car holds two gallons of coolant, then you want to put in one gallon of coolant and one gallon of water.

If your car doesn't have a vent plug, you can fill the radiator to the top, then crank the motor. Note: If you removed the thermostat, be sure to reinstall it, I'd recommend installing a brand-new one.

After you crank the motor, let it idle. Watch the radiator filler spout, water may overflow. If it does, put the cap back on. Feel of the upper radiator hose. When it gets warm to hot, then the thermostat has opened and you can remove the radiator cap slowly. If no water tries to escape, then you can remove it and add water.

Most vehicles of late have a plastic reservoir. After you have the radiator full you can fill the reservoir to the line on the side of the container, "full cold", with water.

Now, commence the motor again and let it idle. Look for leaks (mend them if you have any) and watch the temperature gauge. If you have a light you will have to feel of the upper radiator hose to tell when the motor is at operating temperature: the hose will be very hot. Most vehicles run a 190o thermostat, so you won't be able to hold the hose very long, unless you're a hot-metal worker.

No leaks? Temperature ok? liquid stage full? You're a genius! You are prepared to do some more "repair" on your car, and you don't have to take it to the mend shop.
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Car Ground Effects: Should You Install Yourself?

To make your car handle and look good you need the right car ground effects. Use aero-dynamic wings, spoilers, dams or skirts to get the down force plus the stylish look you have been looking for. These car ground effects features are not just beautiful add-on's, they are designed to really work on your car, truck, jeep or SUV! Generally, they are wind-tunnel tested to generate gigantic breed down force to dramatically enhance traction and keep your car stable at high speeds without draining energy from the motor.

In general you will save a bundle if you buy car ground effects from distributors carrying non OEM aftermarket brands (not the addon offered by the dealer). The standard is comparable and the cost is much lower. If you install yourself you will save even more. But, should you be installing car ground effects yourself ? The respond depends on your skills and on the type of part and material selected.

car ground effects products made in urethane and with easy designs are generally easier to install because they are lightweight and flexible. They usually come with double back 3M high strength tape which bonds the parts to your car tightly. Some manufacturers (like Wings West) offer fantastic videos and detailed instructions on the installation of ground effects for cars. Products made out of fiberglass or with more elaborate designs, such as design style side skirts, demand a lot of skills and experience. To explain it is important to understand the full process.

Installation is not the only stride required in order to have a finished product. Before final installation there is a "dry fitting" method involved which requires experience in order to accomplish it properly, then there is the
prepping method, installation and of course painting. Dry fitting refers to the method where the installer makes all the necessary adjustment to the product in order to make it fit perfectly. It involves trimming, grinding
and filling gaps in order to have the pieces fit the contour of the car. This is a method that is best left to a skillful body man who has done this type of work before, since he can do it a lot faster and cheaper then someone who has no experience.

If you are considering the buy of car ground effects made out of fiberglass or with elaborate designs find the right shop to do the installation for you, before you make the buy, to evade unpleasant surprises. Look for a body man that has at least 1 year experience in installing all types of ground effects in disparate materials. He would be able to do the job in less moment for less cash, then a body man with 30 years of experience but who has never installed a car ground effect before.
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Why Won't My car begin?

Have you ever had your car just "die" on you, you strive to begin it and it just   will not begin.  You end up calling a tow truck and paying those enormous tow bills, then to make matters worse the technician at the shop tells you that it will cost hundreds of dollars to make it run again,is that true? Maybe maybe not.

I own and work as a diagnostics Tech here at Ace Automotive in Lakewood Wa and I can tell you from experience if some people knew just a small more about their cars workings they could save a whole lotta cash.  Say for example you are driving at night-moment wipers and heater ,lights and radio on you notice that the headlights keep getting dimmer and dimmer soon the car "dies" and now won't begin the most likely cause is the alternator has failed, not the battery because if the battery failed the alternator would still keep energy to the car until you turned it off then it would not restart.

You are driving for a while and the car just "shuts off" all the instrument lights come on but when you strive to begin it it just turns over but will not begin. First it depends what kind of car this happened to if it was an import like say Honda, acura, toyota, subaru, nissan, mitubishi, the motor timing belt may have broken (if it's been more that 60,000 miles since you changed it last moment) you should be able to tell if when you strive to begin the motor it sounds disparate like its just "freewheeling" faster than normal, this is evil cause most of the import cars mentioned will do extortionate harm to the motor when the timing belt breaks.

If your car is a domestic one chevy ford etc, be patient wait a small bit maybe 30-45 min and strive to begin it if it starts hurray! But it will "die" again once it's hot enough again, be sure to tell your local tech this priceless information and question for all parts they replace to mend your car to let them know you know something about the car too.
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The Three Basic Methods of car Pinstriping

Before we talk about the distinct auto pinstriping methods we need to cover a couple of basic points : 

1) Pinstripes are usually done in two colors: one that compliments the body color, and another, thin line, which contrasts to make the stripe stand out. There are no rules: color decision is a matter of personal choice .... and imagination !!!

 2) Make sure the surface to pinstripe is absolutely clean. Get rid of all residue with a good pre-surface preparation product OK, now to the distinct auto pinstriping techniques : Mechanical Pinstriping a mechanical auto pinstriping is the best for striping long areas like trucks, vans, or station wagons. The main merit is that it puts down stripes of consistent width, letting you concentrate more on keeping the contour of the stripe aligned along your work surface. 

The Buegler pinstriper and accessories are one of the preferred by body shops and pinstripers for their high grade building and consistent operation. The easiest path to use a buegler striper is to set up your stripe line using a magnetic auto pinstriping strip. It adheres firmly to steel surfaces, forms mild curves, and has a center groove designed with the Buegler's govern arm in mind. 

The strip can also act as a govern for your hand. Striping with Stencil Tape There are several distinct stencil tapes that are suitable for almost any auto pinstriping application. Stencil tapes let you lay down stripes of distinct colors without waiting for the other stripes to dry. Stencil tape striping requires brushes: the pinstriping brush is the most important component for a magnificent final result. Freehand Striping This auto pinstriping mode is the most advanced one and requires the most practice to leader, but offers unlimited flexibility. 

The easiest mode for the freehand striping beginner is to lay down a strip of masking tape about ¼ inch from where you would like the line to be. Use the tape as a visual govern for your stripes. Do not use grade masking tape for edging pinstripes. the pinstriping colourant will seep and bleed under the edge of grade masking tape. The pinstriping can be as plain or as fancy as your patience and stage of skill allows. Regardless of the design, pinstriping is one of the best ways to make your car very distinctive. Like anything worth doing right, practice will make worthwhile results .... and having the best feasible supplies is critical too.
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